Gnd
+Vin
Gnd
3.3V
restarting your program.
Removing the PropSTICK from a solderless
breadboard is a little tricky. Be sure to use
the "extractor" provided and not a metal
implement like a screwdriver. Working from
the sides, as shown in the photo below,
gently pry a little bit at a time on alternate
sides until it's free.
PropSTICK Kit
Cat. No. 32310
Shown Assembled, with
Solderless Breadboard
(Not Included)
www.parallax.com
support@parallax.com
Assuming everything checks out, peel the
label off its backing and, starting from one
end, roll it onto the back of the Propeller
chip, pressing out any air bubbles as you go
along. Make sure the semicircular cutout on
the label aligns with its mate on the IC.
Now, with the power off, insert the Propeller
chip into its socket on the PropSTICK,
making sure that pin 1 aligns with the "
1
" on
the board. Connect an RS232 cable between
the DB9 and your PC, and start the Propeller
IDE. Power up the PropSTICK. Then press
the F7 key. You should see a message
indicating that the Propeller was found.
When programming the Propeller, you can
upload either to RAM or EEPROM. In the
latter case, the reset button on the
PropSTICK will come in handy for
!
NOTE:
Although the PropSTICK's Vin supply can range from +5V to +9V, the
Propeller chip's pins should
never
have more than 3.3V applied to them.
123
Sample Programs
Any program written for the Propeller will,
of course, work with the PropSTICK.
Sample programs for the PropSTICK can be
downloaded at:
www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=32310
PropSTICK Schematic
599 Menlo Drive, Suite 100 • Rocklin, CA 95765 • USA
888-512-1024 (toll-free) • 916-624-8333 • 916-624-8003 (fax)
Document revision: 2006 June 13
Parts List
1 ea. DB9 Connector
1 ea. Tactile Switch
1 ea. Propeller Chip
10K
10K
2 ea. pin
receptacle
.1µF .01µF
4.7K 4.7K
10µF
.1µF .1µF .1µF
.1µF
1 ea. RS232 Transceiver
1 ea. 3.3V Regulator
3232
PBX32A-D40
10K .1µF
+
1 ea. Propeller Chip Label
A0 A31
A1 A30
A2 A29
A3 A28
A4 A27
A5 A26
A6 A25
A7 A24
Gnd 3.3V
BOEn XO
RSTn XI
3.3V Gnd
A8 A23
A9 A22
A10 A21
A11 A20
A12 A19
A13 A18
A14 A17
A15 A16
1 ea. Wooden "Extractor"
1 ea. 32K EEPROM
1 ea. NPN Transistor
24LC256
.1µF
PARALLAX
PROPELLER
1 ea. 10µF Cap
106
1 ea. 5MHz Crystal
1 ea. Insulator
2 ea. 20-position Socket Strips
+
1 ea. .01µF Cap
103
7 ea. 0.1µF Cap
104
2 ea. (or more) 3" Jumper Wires
1 ea. PropSTICK Circuit Board
3 ea. 10K 1/8W Resistor (Brn Blk Org)
2 ea. 4.7K 1/8W Resistor (Yel Vio Red)
the board, and push it in all the way. The
insulator will ride up the leads and adhere to
the board. Solder the crystal into place.
Next, mount and solder everything else
except the DB9 connector, the sockets, the
transistor, and the switch
. Use the photo
above as a guide for those parts designators
covered by the DIPs. The resistors that are
mounted on 0.1" centers should be bent
transistor-radio-style, as shown:
Assembly & Testing
To assemble and test the PropSTICK, you will
need a low-wattage soldering iron with a
fine tip, some rosin-core solder, a good pair
of lead trimmers (side-cutters), needle-nosed
pliers, a +5VDC supply, and a voltmeter.
First, familiarize yourself with the circuit
board. The top (component) side is the side
with the white silkscreen legend. The
bottom (solder) side has the copyright
notice. This is the side that gets soldered.
Now, take the voltage regulator and, with
the pliers, bend the leads as shown:
0.7"
solder the other two pins.
Next, mount the two small DIPs, aligning
their notches with the silkscreen. You may
need to flex the leads inward to get all the
pins through their holes. Push the ICs in all
the way, flip the board over, and solder them
in place. The board will look like this:
Notches
Keep the loops tight, but not kinked. As you
go along, you should trim the soldered leads
as close to the circuit board as you can. The
board will look like this:
Next, bend the leads of the 10µF capacitor
as shown:
Now, take the two 20-pin socket strips and
insert them through their holes.
Make sure
the strips are wholly within the rectangular
areas designated for them.
There should be
one empty hole left over in each row at the
end of the board. Flip the board over and
place on a flat, smooth surface. See photo:
Empty holes
Then insert the leads through their
respective holes. Jockey the IC around if
necessary so the large holes in its metal tab
and in the board line up. Make sure the
package is flat against the board. You can
use a #4 screw and a nut (not included) to
hold the IC in place if you like. Solder the
middle pin, and recheck the alignment. Then
Insert the cap's leads through the holes on
the board, making sure the "+" signs align.
Solder one lead and verify that the cap is
lying flat, then solder the other lead.
Remove the Mylar crystal insulator from its
backing, and slide it onto the crystal leads,
sticky side facing away from the crystal.
Insert the crystal leads through the holes in
Solder one of the middle pins on each socket
strip.
Try not to get solder too far up the leg
of the pin. A small fillet near the hole is all
you want. Neatness counts here, so take your
time!
Check to make sure the soldered pins
are all the way in and that the sockets are
sitting squarely atop the board. If not, press
the board down with one hand while heating
the solder joint with the other. Now, do the
same with the pins on the ends, again
making sure they're inserted all the way and
that the sockets are squarely seated. Finally,
solder the remaining pins, checking and
correcting the seating as you go along.
Take the two pin receptacles, insert them
squarely into their respective holes (the
"leftover" socket holes, and solder them in
place.
Now, grab the DB9 connector and slide it
over the pads at the end of the board. There
will be five pins on top and four on the
bottom. Make sure the pins align with their
respective pads, and solder the middle pin
on top to its pad. Double check the
alignment, and adjust if necessary. Then
solder the other eight pins to their pads.
The last items to be installed are the
transistor and switch. Push them in as far as
they will go, and solder them into place.
Make sure all the leads (excepting the socket
strips, of course) are trimmed close to the
board.
To test the board, you will need a +5VDC
power supply. Push the PropSTICK into a
solderless breadboard, as shown on the next
page. Apply power to the +Vin and Gnd
sockets at the end of the board. With a
voltmeter, measure the voltage between pins
2 and 3 of the voltage regulator. It should
read 3.3V. Also, verify the voltage between
the Propeller's 3.3V and Gnd positions. You
can lay the vinyl label (with the backing still
on) between the socket strips as an aid in
finding the right positions to check.
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