High-end magnetic lamp

The prerequisite for a perfect replica: Print the outer shell yourself, supporting it at an 87° angle or using a support interceptor to ensure there is no support inside the holes. When the 2.2mm layer height is almost finished printing, manually insert 8 10*5*2 magnets, then print the remaining part to perfectly hide the magnets.
 
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This project is mainly used for: secretly studying English every night after lights out in the dormitory. A few weeks ago, the opening of the CET-4 essay was "dear submission," which was very painful.
Actual test results: magnetic lamp *2, the brightness of the center of the desktop can reach 500 lux. This is
 
based on actual use by a roommate
! The power consumption at full brightness is very high, reaching over 20W, and the battery can only last for 30 minutes.
 
Open source code repository: see attachment or panyihang/light-pro: high-end magnetic lamp, high CRI, RA98, very bright (github.com), provides 2M firmware, compatible with ESP32S2 built-in 2M and 4M flash versions, burning offset 0x00, or you can compile it yourself.
 
The casing is the first to use the Fusion360 design. Source files are provided; please refrain from criticism if you don't like them.
 
Touch sliders are enabled. Standby current is 9mA, and it can last for about a week.
 
The LED beads used are the best available available, with a nominal color rendering index (CRI) of at least 98, meaning RA>98, essentially the same performance as a full-spectrum desk lamp sold on Taobao for over 2000 RMB. The
LED constant current driver uses high-frequency PWM dimming, maintaining a 60kHz@9bit dimming frequency at a 10MHz CPU frequency. Photodetector testing showed no flicker.
As for why such a high-end SOC like the ESP32S2 is used in the lamp... espidf has a touch component, including the touch slider for this project, but hardware support is only available on S2 and S3 models.
 
Production steps: Prepare 1 lamp board, 1 1200mAh battery, 8 magnets (embedded in the casing), 1 light diffuser plate (see attached DXF for appearance), 1 casing (see attached STL), 1 triple button (see attached STL), 5 m2.5*6 round head screws, and 4 m2*4 screws
. The 1200mAh battery can be connected using an XH2.5 connector or soldered directly. It's recommended to glue it to the board to prevent movement.
 
Plug in the power, press and hold SW2, then press SW1 once to enter burning mode. Connect the USB port to burn the program; the code can be found in the repository or attachments. Due to CPU limitations at 10MHz, there is no USB function; subsequent updates will require manually entering burning mode.
Remember to test the functionality after burning!
Place the button in the slot beforehand, and insert the board diagonally into the casing, pressing firmly in the direction of the arrow.
Before placing the board, check the Type-C connector soldering for reliability; otherwise, it may warp.
Due to printer performance limitations, the rounded corners of the casing may not align perfectly with the board, resulting in slight misalignment, but this does not affect usage.
Install five M2.5*6 round-head screws,
cover the light distribution plate, and secure with M2*4 screws or apply glue. This completes the process.
 
Ver0.1 Firmware Operation Instructions: The device is off by default. A short press enters the dimming mode by pressing the middle button. Slide the touch bar to the left to increase brightness, and to the right to decrease it.
A short press of the left button switches between warm and cool light modes.
When shutting down, press and hold the middle button until both lights are at their brightest.
 
Finally.