Camera module adapter board supporting Windows Hello

 
(Note in advance: The test results of this module on my own HP notebook are poor. The RGB camera image is blurry and jittery, and the infrared camera image quality is even prehistoric;
and it is very annoying that when this camera module is plugged in, the startup LOGO will be stuck. screen, the computer will boot normally after unplugging it.
What’s even more outrageous is that if the module is plugged in again during startup, the computer will still be stuck, and the computer will not continue to boot until the module is unplugged,,,,,
but the computer completes booting and enters After the system is installed, it will not be affected no matter how you plug or unplug it.
Later, I borrowed my classmate’s laptop of another brand and tried it. There was no problem. The reason is still unknown.
If your computer brand is HP ( Regardless of laptop or desktop), and if the original factory does not come with Windows Hello (who will plug in this thing if it comes with Windows Hello...),
there is a certain probability that this BUG will appear, and it is not recommended to use this module)
 
when building a board It is recommended to choose 0.8 or 1.0 plate thickness for the main body of the adapter board, and 0.8 for the front panel (if it is too thick, the light from the indicator light will not penetrate the smiling face). It is recommended to choose 1.6 for the front frame + back cover + rear frame.
 
The adapter board is suitable for this camera. Module:
 
What it looks like after the adapter plate is welded:
 
 
 
 
Module welding method:
 
 
 
Then cut the frame and set aside:
 
 
 
Then fix the front frame (I fixed it with glue):
 
 
 
After fixing the frame, stick a double-sided circle on the frame Glue and put on a thin piece of glass (the lens film I used for Xiaomi 10S, which costs 3 or 4 yuan from Taobao wallet):
 
 
 
then glue on the front panel (the four round ones on top are magnets, used to stick to the iron table like the cover picture) (above):
 
 
 
At this point, all the front work is done, and you can choose whether to do the back work;
 
fix the rear frame:
 
 
 
If it is fixed with glue, don’t forget to seal the Type-C port with something to prevent glue from entering. :
 
 
 
The glue flow is everywhere, so just fill the back groove with thermal conductive glue:
 
 
 
Fix the back cover:
 
 
 
After it is fully sealed, use sandpaper to polish the residual glue on the edge.