[Verified] Moxin MCL8051 five-string lithium battery protection board

The reason for making this board is a long story.
My colleague’s lithium electric drill battery protection board blew out the MOS tube, so I helped him replace it with a new board, and now I have this experimental material.
 
It's rare to have free learning materials delivered to your door, so quickly check the chip manual.
The result data sheet shows that some component parameters are missing. Can you rely on guessing? The probability of guessing correctly. . . . . .
 
(PS: Shouldn’t the wire of pin 13 be drawn in a beautiful and neat way? It has to be crossed. I watched the obsessive-compulsive disorder attack several times.)
 
I don’t want to pretend anymore. I’m showing off. I’ve always wanted to remake the five-section Makita. As for the protective board, it happens that free materials are now delivered to your door. It’s just the right time and the right people
, and there are no parameters. Find a corresponding one, just copy and paste it, and you’re done?
 
The schematic diagram has some additions based on the actual thing.
The actual object on the cover is based on the main [testing] purpose of selecting the component layout for [charging and discharging at the same port]. It
is planned to be used for solar power supply. The current is not large, and a single tube is enough. If the test is successful, it can be used directly.
Why bother to do it again? After all, there is only one material chip.
Note 1: Solder all the components, including the battery contact piece, and it can be directly used in ordinary power tools. Q2 can be changed to a small package such as AO3400. For tools with larger current, it is recommended to manually add double or triple tubes at the Q1 end side by side.
 
Note 2: The thicker yellow and black wire is the wiring location of the same port for charging and discharging. The charging voltage cannot be higher than 21.5V.
When charging with the charger that comes with the power tool (around 22.5V), you need to connect a Schottky SS14 or SS34 (copied from the real thing) in series with the negative pole to increase some voltage drop.
 
Note 3: Board 1 has passed the verification. Board 2 has a smaller package than board 1. Weld one of the packages as needed.
The above is the end of this nonsense.
 
A friendly reminder: The BOM is 99% trustworthy by default. Except for the wrong chip model, find a replacement with the same package.