voron2.4 hub

It's too expensive and it's troublesome to crimp the wires, so I made a simple hub board and used HDMI as the connection cable~
The board has enough interfaces reserved, and an additional temperature sensor and spare interface are added, as well as an extruder fan interface connected in parallel with the throat fan-

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This project also includes lamp beads that can be plugged into the SB tool head, Euclid Probe V2 leveling (PCB version of Klicky)
The Euclid Probe V2 version simplifies the wiring compared to the original version, separates the functions of the upper and lower boards, and adds some voron logos (strokes
Assembly tutorial: [click here](https://euclidprobe.github.io/01_diybuild.html)

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##### *Has the board been verified? *

See the table below.
(The current cover is version 2.0)
| Version | Print head end | MCU end | Is it verified?
| | --- | ---- | ---- | ---- | |
V1.0 | The first version, there was interference during installation...I didn't put it up| | Yes |
| V2.0 | This time it can be installed stably and the cover can be closed, but the position of the interface still needs to be optimized | Center the HDMI interface | Yes |
| V2.2 | Fixed a silk screen error compared to version 2.0, and changed some interface positions | Added holes for 2.4 universal motherboard fixings | Yes |

##### *What's the matter with these strange version numbers? *

The print head end and the MCU end of the major version (V1.0, V2.0) are not universal, but the minor version (V2.0, V2.2) are universal

##### *Is HDMI reliable? *

Very stable. (After version 2.2, cable tie holes were added to assist in fixing)

##### *Are there enough interfaces? *

Completely enough.
There are two optional interfaces, X limit and spare interface. Both can be connected to other devices (such as rabbit color change)

##### *Does this mean that the drag chain cannot be used? *

It seems so. The HDMI cable is too thick and not wear-resistant.
Check this [MOD](https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/ho9WEyf6msbGKhTbtM59mQ) Use the pigtail and the Y limit
X limit fixed on the gantry to fix it on the print head, and you can connect the X limit interface

##### *Which boards should I print? *

Choose the **latest** version number of each board, and all can be printed separately for free. *Example: MCU end 2.2, print head end 2.2*

##### *Which parts should I buy? *

See the table below. Some are optional components, but it is **highly** recommended to buy all.
The current bom is version 2.2

| Specifications| Quantity| Remarks|
| --- | --- | --- |
| HDMI patch female socket| 2 | |
| XH2.54 straight pin socket 2P | 4 | |
| XH2.54 straight pin socket 3P | 3 | |
| XH2.54 straight needle seat 4P | 1 | |
| XH2.54 curved needle seat 2P | 5 | |
| XH2.54 curved needle seat 3P | 3 | |
| PH2.0 curved needle seat 4P | 1 | For extruder motor |
| KF301 2P terminal block | 2 | Heating rod wiring |
| XH2.54 plastic shell 2P | Several | The more the better |
| XH2.54 plastic shell 3P | Several | The more the better |
| XH2.54 plastic shell 4P | Several | The more the better |
| XH2.54 crimping terminal | Several | The more the better |
| 60-core servo cable | Several | For connecting 3-pin devices such as light boards |
| 24 or 20AWG Teflon cable | Several | For connecting devices that do not require high current such as thermistors and fans |
| HDMI cable | 1 | Length 1.5m![a5fc75ab5ba76db70570754786c35b1a.png] | 18AWG silicone wire | Several | Optional - One meter is enough for connecting the heating rod |
| Wire crimping pliers | 1 | Optional - You may doubt your life if you use ordinary pliers to crimp; the recommended model is SN2549 |
| 5050 RGBW lamp beads | 3 | Optional - If you have already purchased finished lamp beads with wires, you don’t need them |
| Teflon capillary with outer diameter 1 and inner diameter 0.6 | Several | Suggestion - Do you want to make the thermal probe wire yourself? |
| 6x3 magnets with holes (attractive) | 4 (two pairs) | Optional - for Euclid Probe |
| M2x5 countersunk screws | 4 | Optional - for Euclid Probe |
| Mouse micro switch | 1 | Optional - for Euclid Probe, ordinary limit switches are fine |
| Brain | 999 | Don't be bothered |
| Hands | 999 | Need to be able to solder, cut PCB (diamond saw blade recommended), crimp terminals |

##### *Too many boards, what to do if coupons are not enough? *

You can play "**Ultimate Jigsaw**" and use one free coupon to get all the boards, but it requires a little trick...
Lack of lamp beads? Not enough lamp beads? Five hundred at a time! Play "**One Hundred Lamp Beads**", which also requires skills

##### *What are the above skills? * If you place an order

in the middle of the night (after 12 o'clock), there is a chance that the system will automatically review it, and the probability of passing the review the next day will be higher
(it also depends on luck and board design)

##### *How to design this weird puzzle? *

Do not use stamp holes to connect the boards; do not design any structure that can be directly broken apart; use 4mm or wider arms to connect each board;
merge board frame lines; try not to have any slots (you can use solder pads instead); randomly run a few lines between each board

##### *How to separate these boards? *

Cutting. Small electric grinders, angle grinders, table saws, all can be used.
It is recommended to use diamond saw blades, which have faster cutting speeds and can also be polished
*****
jlc, come out! What's up with this sensitive word ?