【Creative PCB】Cube light

Remark

Created a group: 737075815. There are many big guys in it. If you are interested, you can join.

Origin

This is optimized based on the time-space cube I made before . The demonstration video is at station B. You can click on the link to watch it.

It is said to be optimization, but in fact, the software and hardware architecture of the desktop decorative lamp designed this time has been completely changed.

hardware design

The current design is divided into two parts

the top half

It is a cube skeleton 3D printed using Jialichuang's 3D Monkey . The six sides are empty. Then 12 LED light strips are used to weld it into a cube, which is placed in the 3D shell and laser engraving machine is used to follow the specified size. Cut the transparent acrylic and paste it with a semi-permeable film, seal the 6 sides, and then turn on the power to achieve the effect of an infinity mirror. There are many colorful LEDs flashing inside to achieve the effect of bright stars.

the second half

Use PCB to draw a circular base, draw some appropriate patterns on it, and supply power to the upper half of the cube through the pads on it;

In fact, although the texture of this bottom plate seems to be drawn randomly, there are also some small thoughts. For example, this Bagua picture is not randomly placed, but intentionally inverted: the Bagua corresponding to the touch button is Gan, which is Wang. Corresponding to the full moon of the Mid-Autumn Festival, it means perfection.

Furthermore, the size of the Bagua is based on the size of the actual 3D printed cubic lamp, which plays a role in determining the position.

Another function of the base is to realize a Bluetooth keyboard with touch buttons by equipped with Qinheng CH573 .

software design

CH573

The original TMOS system is used, and the HID_keyboard+ADC functions are enabled. You can realize Bluetooth touch buttons.

The specific code will be open sourced on gitee/github later.

The current code and firmware have been uploaded to the attachment, new functions are being added, and will be updated to the open source website after the new functions are added.

progress update

0902

I tried to use the 3D Monkey 3D printed welding auxiliary bracket to weld a light panel. It was much easier than before. At least I didn’t have to adjust the angle to determine the position of the light panel.

The five CH573F chips I applied for at Qinheng also arrived, but they were paid on delivery by SF Express, and the free prostitution failed... But they brought a small box, which was quite exquisite.

0905

The board arrived, but it was raining heavily on Sunday. I didn’t want to go to the company to pick it up, but as evening approached, I felt more and more urgent, so I went to the company in the rain, picked up the express delivery and a bunch of tools, and hurried home to start the business. Do it.

When all the components are soldered and the power is turned on, a wisp of smoke...

Sure enough, there will always be problems with the first version. After a lot of troubleshooting, I discovered a problem that I found difficult to accept: the positive and negative poles of the USB socket on the schematic diagram were reversed ...

After checking it carefully, I decided to make a new version. However, this batch will be used first for debugging. I replaced the 1117 on the board with a new one, found an old USB cable and cut it off, reversed the positive and negative poles, and powered on. Sure enough, everything was normal... I felt extremely comfortable.

However, it was almost one o'clock in the morning.

0906

It took a lot of effort to separate the panels of the light panel. This is a big problem. The size of the panels is not enough. Jialichuang does not accept panels within 5mm, and Luo Bian has requirements for the board size, which is very uncomfortable.

The last time I tested the welding of the light panel, it was quite easy, but this time it was very difficult to weld the new light panel. The welding bracket was almost burnt before I could weld it so well. Maybe it has something to do with the color of the board this time. Fortunately, the welding is finally completed.

0907

Today I combined the two parts into one, and the effect is quite good. The video is attached.

0915

Time flies so fast. I recently used my free time to rearrange the bottom panel and remove the antenna window. This makes it look more comfortable and also corrects some known errors. Then, during the actual operation, it was found that the lamp board was really difficult to separate and weld, so it was changed to a new version. Both boards have been printed, but depending on the progress, we may not be able to receive them until after the Mid-Autumn Festival and start welding, which is really a pity.

After the new board is soldered later, I will readjust the program and try to realize different functions through a touch button.

0923

The attachment has been updated and the hex file has been uploaded. At the same time, the source file of mrs has also been uploaded. Those who need it can take it by themselves. Commercial use is prohibited.

0927

The previous version of the LED light board was really difficult to solder (maybe it’s because my hands are weak)

I just changed it to one version, and now it's quite comfortable to weld.

It just needs to be connected with a wire on the back.

The effect is also good, mainly because it is not so labor-intensive.

1003

Uploaded the 3D file of the shell

1022

Recently, many friends have made this cubic lamp, and encountered some minor problems. Let me describe them briefly:

1. The on-board antenna does not need to be welded, the antenna is on the top layer;

2. The chip uses Qinheng CH573F, QFN package. When welding, I used solder paste + hot air gun for welding. So far, the success rate is relatively high.

3. To power the cubic lamp, I purchased a finished DC-DC power module (Yibat DC-DC step-down power module | 12V to 5V | 3.3V 24V to 5V/3.3V, 5W voltage stabilizing module), the voltage is 3.3V , please search by yourself. As for why I chose this module, it was because I didn’t want to use an LDO because the larger current would cause too much heat. But at the same time, I didn’t want too many peripheral components and I wasn’t good at circuits, so I chose a finished module.

4. The following LED-ZFM is recommended for the light panel. Relatively speaking, cutting will be a little easier.

5. The recommended solder resist color for the lamp board is black; the thickness is 0.8mm; the recommended solder resist color for the base plate is black, and the thickness is 1.6mm.

6. Acrylic cutting size: 48x48x2mm.

7. Reflective film is a common window shading film on the market and is very cheap.

8. If you are not confident in your welding skills, it is recommended to 3D print the welding auxiliary bracket together, which can slightly reduce the pressure of welding the cubic light.

9. Use wchisp to download the program.

10. The lamp beads of the cubic lamp change color by themselves. There is no separate program control, and they do not accept signal control. If they run for a long time, the color inconsistency between different lamp beads will be caused by the time difference.

11. The cubic lamp and the lamp panel are directly connected to each other through a probe-like structure for power supply.

Above, that’s all I can think of for now. Welcome to leave a message with questions, answers and suggestions!