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Based on the Class D digital power amplifier chip TPA3116 Bluetooth power amplifier. Bluetooth uses BK3254 module.
1. Support 2.1 channel.
2. Supports two audio source inputs: wired 3.5 and Bluetooth, which can be switched at will.
3. Support USB and TF card playback.
4. Three types of adjustments: total volume, stereo, and bass.
5. The power amplifier and Bluetooth use B0503S power isolation module, which effectively avoids current sound in different places.
6. The Bluetooth BK3254 module also has FM, infrared remote control and other functions. It is not used in this work. Interested friends can join it.
The speaker was modified from an idle 5.1 center speaker at home, replaced with a new 30W 4-inch full-range speaker + a 4-inch woofer, and an empty box was purchased for the woofer.
Tested both active and Bluetooth audio sources perfectly. The bass is strong enough. Since it uses 12V power supply, it will basically not reach full load power (the maximum output power under different voltages is different, the higher the voltage, the greater the maximum output power), but this set is enough to cope with 4-inch 30 watts. If possible, you can install 6.5-inch speakers + 8-inch bass!
The video was shot with a mobile phone, the quality is average, and the recorded sound is definitely not as good as the real thing. I didn't dare to turn up the volume, just a little. Don't dare test the maximum volume! Afraid of disturbing the people!
The left and right channels use a piece of NE5532 + a piece of TPA3116D2 to form the front and rear stages. The current magnification of the front stage is about 11 times, which feels pretty good! The magnification speed is determined by R21, R22 and R23, R24. Formula: Magnification A=1+R22/R21
The bass channel uses two pieces of NE5532 + one piece of TPA3116D2 to form the front and rear stages. One NE5532 is used as a bass amplifier, and one NE5532 is used as a low-pass filter. The rear stage is connected in PBTL single mode, and the theoretical output power can be up to 100W.
Of course, there are still areas worth improving. For example, the NE5532 can use a voltage stabilizing module to stabilize the voltage at 12V-15V, so that it can be powered by conventional 18V and 24V power supplies. Currently, the temporary use of 12V power supply will cause the voltage of NE5532 to be lower than 12V. Another example is that you can use dual power supplies if conditions permit. But the internal resistance must be symmetrical and the voltage must be stable!
There is not much to say about the power stage TPA3116D2. It basically follows the data sheet, except that the filter capacitor is increased.
In addition, it is best to use 22uH inductor, because the low-pass cut-off frequency of 22uH+0.68uF is 41.15kHz, and the low-pass cut-off frequency of 10uH+0.68uF is 61kHz, so theoretically the performance of 22uH+0.68uF is much better than that of 10uH+0.68uF. Moreover, the quiescent current is also lower than 10uH+0.68uF, and the heat generation is also low. Therefore, I am going to switch to a 22uH inductor and experience the difference (I will update my experience later).
Regarding TPA3116D2 gain (pin 8): You can refer to the data sheet.
But the general principle is: when the gain of the power amplifier is set large, the input noise will be amplified together, and the output noise floor will definitely be very large. It is generally recommended that the gain can be appropriately larger when the supply voltage is below 12V, and it is not recommended to use a large gain when the voltage is above 12V. That is, if you feel that the noise floor is too loud, you can try adjusting the gain.
Regarding Bluetooth: Using the BK3254 module, currently only USB and SD are lead out. As for FM, etc., they are not needed for the time being, so they are not lead out. The serial port function is retained (the Bluetooth name can be changed).
The power supply module uses B0503S to isolate the common ground. To avoid the common ground current sound generated by Bluetooth.
PCB Layerout: The source of the left and right audio channels to the front stage, and the front stage to the rear stage should be differentially and equal-length wiring (I suddenly thought of it, but I forgot it when I drew the picture. There is no problem after making the board, but the best differential length is equal)
The power supply and output are copper-plated and bold.
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