USB 3.0 expansion dock adapter board

Last October, LCSC released a tutorial on designing a four-layer board for a USB 3.0 docking station,
which looked quite appealing. I thought I'd get one too, so I started browsing Taobao to buy components. Then I found a super cheap VL813 board:
I immediately ordered 5 RMB worth, since even just disassembling the chip would be profitable!
After the board arrived, I thought about saving costs and decided to go all the way. So I designed a USB-C female connector adapter board, soldered it to the original soldering positions, and
 
ordered it again. After soldering and connecting it to the computer... damn, it only recognized USB 2.0.
I suspected an impedance mismatch issue, so I modified it to a four-layer board and redesigned it, but it still didn't work...
In the end, I bought a USB 3.0 cable and a Type-C male connector, soldered them according to the original design, and used it
 
for about half a year. One day, while browsing the open-source forum, I saw an open-source portable SSD on the homepage. One sentence in the description caught my attention:
since changing the female connector to a male connector requires swapping, does the reverse also apply?
I immediately redesigned and tested it, and sure enough, it worked!
However, it wasn't completely finished; one board still wouldn't power on...
Following the 5V lead, I discovered a power failure on a DC-DC chip.
The VIN pin was receiving 5V, but there was no output. Based on my experience with Cat Wireless, I should measure the chip's enable signal. Sure enough, the EN pin only had 0.2V. To be safe, I compared it with a working board. The working board's EN pin normally has around 2.3V, so it was basically confirmed to be an enable signal problem.
Continuing to investigate, I found that the EN pin's enable signal was derived from the 5V on the back of the board, passing through vias and then through several 0402 resistors for voltage division. I could measure 5V at the capacitor on the back of the board, but only 0.3V on the front. A broken trace was immediately detected. I took out a polishing pen, smoothed out the pads, and added jumper wires.
 
That solved the problem with the USB port; it was also a broken trace on a power pin, so I added a thicker jumper wire.
 
Finally, I drew a nice-looking casing and declared the tinkering over!