OPENIPC IMX415 19mm Image Transmission Camera

Verified, no issues.
This board uses components in 0402 and higher packages (except LDOs, some are really small).
JLC06161H-3313 (free/finished board thickness 1.60mm±10%).
This project has high soldering difficulty; beginners are not recommended to replicate it. (It's only slightly simpler than the one next door, since it's mostly single-sided). For
those who want to save money, overcome difficulties, and love tinkering, you can give it a try.
Sellers on Xianyu recommend mass production to drive down the price; you can try it.
Sellers are encouraged to engage in price wars. First come
, first served. DIY is risky; please order with caution. The author is not responsible for any unexpected events or losses that may occur.
DigitalFPV Technical Exchange Group 904031209.
This is a technical exchange group! Not an OPENIPC after-sales group! Manufacturer after-sales issues will be kicked out!
Yes, the above text is basically directly copied from the side QVQ, because I really don't know how to write it...
First, I tried to use a single-sided layout for this board. The back only has a DF56C solder pad, which you'll need to manually solder (the DF56C pads are already stretched).
Second, solder the LDO and resistors/capacitors first. After soldering, use a multimeter, connecting one side to 3.3V and the other to the LDO output, to check for resistance. If there's no resistance, congratulations, you have a cold solder joint. Resolder
the LDO using a hot plate or hot air gun. After soldering the LDO, start soldering the 415. For the 415, I suggest first adding solder balls, applying a layer of solder flux (not too thick), and then slowly dotting the solder balls (I used 0.4mm). After blowing with a hot air gun, apply a layer of solder flux to the PCB, place it on a hot plate (heating platform), and gently push it to automatically reset it to stop heating (you can reverse this and place solder balls on the PCB).
For testing, the MIPI DPDN (the 8 external wires) uses a multimeter to measure the resistance to ground. If there is resistance, there's no problem; otherwise, it's a cold solder joint. For the low-speed 4 wires (mclk, RST, I2C), ground the positive terminal of the multimeter and then measure the negative terminal. If the resistance is still the same, there's no problem.
Connect it to the 338, power it on, and if the 415 heats up, the low-speed 4 wires are fine. See the DPDN diagram for more information. If the DN (around 0.5V, measurable with a multimeter) isn't heating up, then there's a problem with the four low-speed pins. Check if the I2C has 1.8V, etc. For
the DF56C, I recommend using a soldering iron; it's brittle and easily deformed. During soldering, absolutely avoid dripping solder onto the socket, otherwise you'll have to replace it.
Actually, the 415 is much easier to solder than the 335. You can use an Aurora case, but some components are too close to the case, so I suggest using adhesive tape or something similar to wrap the LDO, capacitors, and resistors to prevent them from short-circuiting and burning out. After finally getting it working, you install the case, and lo and behold, it's short-circuited and dead
! Using immersion gold plating, 3133 (free), 1.6mm (JLC06161H-3313 (free/finished board thickness 1.60mm±10%)).
Finally, I hope everyone can get their hands on this open-source image transmission system (I dare not open 338... opening it causes a lot of trouble, I believe you can draw it yourself).
Too much solder paste was applied here, which caused me to resolder it later
. Manually arranging the balls isn't too difficult, just very troublesome.
Three 0603 47uf capacitors; after powering on, you can use a multimeter to test this capacitor to determine if the LDO output is normal.
The socket melted a little, but thankfully it's still usable. Hand soldering DF56 is also quite difficult.